Day 17: Jerusalem

My first day in the city consisted mostly of lying in bed with a cold (traceable to shivering in the AC in a certain building for 4-5 hours?), dragging myself to the computer to work on some project deadlines, and looking out of my window skeptically.  I knew I probably should see a little of Jerusalem while here, but my mattress looked far more inviting and I had so much work that had to be done. 

{Also, in between sneezing into toilet tissue, I also reflected on my post about distaste for border crossings.  I probably would not make a good refugee. After all, there was no gunfire, no hiding in the pomegranate trees, no picking up the wounded to take with us, and I still wrote a sarcastic blog.}

But today, feeling somewhat revived, and after a power work session with Rosetta, in which we nearly finished the first draft of our photo book, she and her husband Kevin took me to the Old City of Jerusalem where I experienced about everything a tourist should except riding a camel…. Being introduced to the shop owners they know personally…

  
Bites of hot falafel…. Watching the pray-ers at the Western Wall (after going through a security scanner…sigh) and hearing the scolding at people who took pictures (No photos on Shabbat!) and watching the modesty police offer people shawls … Lentil soup (so nice on my sore throat!) and hummus and pita…

 
Hearing the Muslim call to prayer ringing out from the Dome of the Rock (I think) as we stood at the Western Wall…strong smells of incense wafting out of the Church of the Holy Sepulchure…Sorting through the four currencies in my possession and the three languages of choice…

  
And winding through the maze of arches and stone hallways that is the Old City, ending the night in the home of my friend Jean and her husband Josh, whose bedroom ceiling is an arch made of rock.   

The Old City is like a giant ancient motel, with a thousand doorways, hallways, stairways, cats… I think you could get permanently lost. 

However, I have to admit that, despite my first suspicions, Jerusalem does have some authenticity and beauty I wasn’t sure of at first. I haven’t had time to see much of it, and that wasn’t my goal in coming, but it’s really quite nice. And who gets to tour it for free with two people who lived here?

The last thing I would like to check off tomorrow is a walk to the Mount of Olives. 

Most of all, we are grateful that we are meeting deadlines on our project, the whole purpose of this trip.  We feel a great burden to share the stories entrusted to us with accuracy and warmth. These are people who told us their deepest griefs, with whom we left pieces of our hearts. The best we can do is tell the story well. 

Even if we ourselves (meaning me) whine over a six hour border crossing!